vendredi 30 novembre 2007

Le Nord Est du Bresil

Mardi 20/11: Nous decollons a 9h du matin pour le village d'Alcantara en compagnie d'Elizabeth , une belge tres agreable que nous avons rencontree a algodohal. Nous l'avons surnommee "notre guide" , en effet elle fait tout traduction, explication et le tout dans la bonne humeur et une tres bonne ambiance (elle parle couramment portuguais et pour nous c'est du luxe). Alcantara se situe a 1h30 de Sao Luis par bateau, c'est un village pour le moins atypique et difficilement definissable qui nous plonge dans un autre siecle. Dans ce village semi abandonne surplombant la mer, les ruines, les belles demeures bourgeoises et les maisons en brique se cotoient le long de grandes rues pavees a la facon "baggamon". Les photos seront bien plus parlantes que nos descritpions.
Mercredi 21 depart a 5h du mat pour Barreirinhas, la ville se situe a l'oree du parc des lençois. C'est un endroit paisible ou une dune geante nous souhaite la bienvenue a l'entree du village. Les rues pavees sont parsemees de manguiers disposes de maniere aleatoire et servant de separation a la circulation des vehicules. Nous partons a la decouverte du parc des grands lençois qui sera sans doute l'un des plus beaux sites de notre voyage. Nous nous lancons sur une piste de sable fin sinueuse, le 4 X4 se faufile au travers de la vegetation pour arriver finallement face a un immense desert de sable blanc. Apres avoir gravi la 1ere dune, le spectacle etait a la hauteur de notre emmerveillement, des dunes de sables blanc a perte de vue parsemees de petits lacs d'eau douce. Il vaut mieux venir apres la saison des pluies ou les lacs sont plus nombreux et de couleur cristalline mais nous avons quand meme pu nous baigner dans un des lacs. Nous avons attendu que le soleil se couche sur ces dunes balayees par le vent, nous offrant un spectacle surrealiste, a mediter sur la force de la nature et ce que l'homme represente dans tout ça...
le lendemain nous partons pour une excursion sur un canal separant le parc du petit et du grand lençois. Le payasage etait nettement moins impressionant jusqu'a ce que nous apercevions des dunes ayant pris place au milieu de la mangrove le long du canal. Nous nous sommes arretes dans 2 villages un etant encercle par les dunes et l'autre etant surplombe d'un phare.Nous avons passe l'apres midi a Caboure situe sur une langue de sable separant la mer du canal. Il n'y a rien a faire dans ce village, pas de vegetation, pas d'ombre: Dur pour eux!
De retour a Barreirinhas dans l'apres midi nous prennons un nouveau 4X4 afin d'avancer vers l'est. Pendant 2H30 nous naviguons sur une piste de sable a travers les dunes, croisant de temps a autre des hutes, des maisons isolees, des tropueaus de vaches, de cochons sauvages, des chevaux et d'anes sauvages. Ce paysage magnifique baigne dans la luminosite du soleil couchant nous ramenait a l'epoque du grand farwest.
Vendredi depart a 5H du mat ou apres 1H30 de 4x4 nous retrouvons le bus et l'asphalte. Mais si nous avions deja connu 2 crevaisons, cette fois le probleme est plus serieux, le bus a rendu l'ame.Nous sommes arretes sous un soleil de plomb et apres 1H30 d'attente, nous repartons dans un bus de remplacement dans un etat plus delabre mais qui roule. Nous arrivons donc a Parnaiba, ville sans interet mis part un centre historique de 500 m2!!! Inutile de faire de vieux os ici, nous repartons pour Jericoacoara. Stop obligatoite a Camocin, petite ville de pecheur ou les voiles multicolores des bateaux sur la mer forment un beau tableau. Nous prennons ensuite un buggy pour devaler les 70 kms le long des plages qui nous separent de Jerricoacoara. C'est un petit village balneaire ou toutes les activites sont liees a la mer, au vent et n'oublions pas la fiesta!
Rien a faire donc! pour moi c'etait farniente , bouquin, piscine, hamac, caipiroska et fiesta le soir. Pour Pierre balade dans un simili desert (steppe et dune)sous un soleil de plomb, iniciation au kite surf ( ca donne envie d'approfondir), aggremente de quelques caipirinha.
C'est dimanche soir, nous quittons "Jeri" accompagne par la pleine lune. Ses reflets glissaient sur la mer nous offrant un paysage feerique.
Nous arrivons au petit matin a Canoa Quebrada, village tout aussi touristique mais tres mignon. De petites falaises de roches ocres friables longent la plage. Pas grand chose a dire mis a part de nos voisins de chambre un italien drole et degente , un francais a la gaston Lagaffe et degente et pour finir un japonnais dont le prenon signifie paix et qui ne corresponds pas vraiment a sa personnalite totalement degente, vous aurez donc compris ce qui reunit ces 3 lascars!
Jeudi 29 nous partons pour Natal ou se deroule "CARNATAL" le 4 eme plus grand carnaval du Bresil, fete plus musicale que costumme et paillette. Hier, nous avons vu ce que ca donnait en direct a la tele pour nous preparer psychologiquement a en faire parti!
ps: ci joint le lien sur les photos du bresil mais on s'arrete a sao luis
http://picasaweb.google.com/kynette/BRESIL

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